New Zealand
Waipu
The sign at the edge of village reads ceud mile failte, a hundred thousand welcomes.
But this is not the Highlands of Scotland, nor is it Cape Breton.
On the other side of the world, in the heart of the South Pacific, there's a sound reason for the ancient Celtic greeting.
The founders of this tiny New Zealand enclave - as you might have guessed - were Scottish - with a Canadian connection. They came here to Aotearoa, or the "land of the long white cloud" via Nova Scotia, led by a fiery Presbyterian preacher, Norman McLeod. After 30 years of living in Cape Breton, a potato blight struck in 1846 so McLeod and his followers sought a kinder, gentler land.
They found it at Waipu, their own earthly paradise, overlooking Bream Bay.
Their story is told at the House of Memories, a museum established in 1953, where photos and biographies of the stern, upright (some might say "uptight") McLeod and the Waipu ancestors are found. If you are, or think you are, related to this lot, you can find the information here in the small stone building on the main street. The reminders of the ancestors are also seen everywhere about the town - Nova Scotia Drive, Cape Breton Park, the tartan that decorates the local pizza place.
Waipu
The sign at the edge of village reads ceud mile failte, a hundred thousand welcomes.
But this is not the Highlands of Scotland, nor is it Cape Breton.
On the other side of the world, in the heart of the South Pacific, there's a sound reason for the ancient Celtic greeting.
The founders of this tiny New Zealand enclave - as you might have guessed - were Scottish - with a Canadian connection. They came here to Aotearoa, or the "land of the long white cloud" via Nova Scotia, led by a fiery Presbyterian preacher, Norman McLeod. After 30 years of living in Cape Breton, a potato blight struck in 1846 so McLeod and his followers sought a kinder, gentler land.
They found it at Waipu, their own earthly paradise, overlooking Bream Bay.
Their story is told at the House of Memories, a museum established in 1953, where photos and biographies of the stern, upright (some might say "uptight") McLeod and the Waipu ancestors are found. If you are, or think you are, related to this lot, you can find the information here in the small stone building on the main street. The reminders of the ancestors are also seen everywhere about the town - Nova Scotia Drive, Cape Breton Park, the tartan that decorates the local pizza place.
Today, Waipu residents have put their past behind them for the most part - but for the Caledonian games held each summer in January. The town is home to many artists and writers, in addition to those who have chosen to flee Auckland for the hill country and its nearby beautiful, white beaches.
As one former Auckland resident, Rosemary Neave, has written: "We were captured by that startling vista of sea and sky .... it seemed our search for paradise was over."
From her home atop a hill, it is easy to believe that is so. The lawn stretches toward a lush, organic garden and, beyond, the magnificent vista of rolling hills, the headlands and the beach. It's a place to sit and dream; to wonder
As one former Auckland resident, Rosemary Neave, has written: "We were captured by that startling vista of sea and sky .... it seemed our search for paradise was over."
From her home atop a hill, it is easy to believe that is so. The lawn stretches toward a lush, organic garden and, beyond, the magnificent vista of rolling hills, the headlands and the beach. It's a place to sit and dream; to wonder
at the peace and civility of this island country; to listen to the operatic arias Neave loves; or to simply give way to the joy of meditating on the view.
Neave's home is also the Waihoihoi Women's Lodge and Studio. The lodge caters to women; the studio, built by Neave, is open to men and women. Waihoihoi was established four years ago and is named after the nearby river (in the Maori language it means noisy waters). It is the perfect place from which to explore the Northland area of New Zealand (you'll want a car to be doing this).
In the vicinity, there are unspoiled beaches for swimming or surfing or just lying in the sun (it's not as hot as Australia but you'll want sunscreen). At Waipu Cove, about five kilometres from the village, the beach is quiet and unspoiled, a favourite with families. A 30-minute drive to the south is Mangawhai, where the beach is a favourite with the younger, surfing crowd but here, too, it is unspoiled. After a leisurely day of exploring and watching the young surfers, we joined Neave and her friends for dinner at the Beach House in Waipu Cove. It's a local secret (hidden away behind a motor inn) but I'm going to make it an open secret (and you'll thank me for it): Chef Mark Lane has cooked for 22 years in his native New Zealand, in Australia and in London. It's fine fusion dining in a lovely atmosphere and with efficient, friendly service.
Further afield, the pretty historic town of Russell, on the east coast of the Northland region, is a must destination; if you want to go on to the spectacular Ninety Mile Beach and the wild seascape of Cape Reinga, stay overnight; if not, you can make it a day trip from Waipu. Take the inland route up so you can stop at Waitangi where modern New Zealand's founding document was signed by the Maori and Pakeha (white settlers) in 1840.
In the vicinity, there are unspoiled beaches for swimming or surfing or just lying in the sun (it's not as hot as Australia but you'll want sunscreen). At Waipu Cove, about five kilometres from the village, the beach is quiet and unspoiled, a favourite with families. A 30-minute drive to the south is Mangawhai, where the beach is a favourite with the younger, surfing crowd but here, too, it is unspoiled. After a leisurely day of exploring and watching the young surfers, we joined Neave and her friends for dinner at the Beach House in Waipu Cove. It's a local secret (hidden away behind a motor inn) but I'm going to make it an open secret (and you'll thank me for it): Chef Mark Lane has cooked for 22 years in his native New Zealand, in Australia and in London. It's fine fusion dining in a lovely atmosphere and with efficient, friendly service.
Further afield, the pretty historic town of Russell, on the east coast of the Northland region, is a must destination; if you want to go on to the spectacular Ninety Mile Beach and the wild seascape of Cape Reinga, stay overnight; if not, you can make it a day trip from Waipu. Take the inland route up so you can stop at Waitangi where modern New Zealand's founding document was signed by the Maori and Pakeha (white settlers) in 1840.
On the way back, the Old Russell Road along the coast is the slow and winding route but beautiful. The countryside on this trip is so lovely, it prompted my travelling companion to announce: "There's no scenic route in New Zealand. They're all scenic routes."
From Waitangi, the closest town is Paihia, a thriving - and rapidly growing - beach resort from where you can catch the ferry to Russell, a quieter more sedate place, though back in the 19th century that wasn't so. In 1835, Charles Darwin said it was populated by the "refuse of society" - fleeing convicts, whalers, prostitutes and drunken sailors. Today it is peaceful and pretty town with not a hint of its infamous past.
From Waitangi, the closest town is Paihia, a thriving - and rapidly growing - beach resort from where you can catch the ferry to Russell, a quieter more sedate place, though back in the 19th century that wasn't so. In 1835, Charles Darwin said it was populated by the "refuse of society" - fleeing convicts, whalers, prostitutes and drunken sailors. Today it is peaceful and pretty town with not a hint of its infamous past.
On another day trip, this time along the west coast, you must "prepare to be gobsmacked," as my astute partner says. The overwhelming, breathtaking sight is a tree - Tane Mahuta, named after the Maori god of the forests. It's the largest kauri tree in New Zealand, is about 2,000 years old and stands 51 metres. It is easy to reach - from the road, it's only a five-minute walk through the forest.
Before a trip to the forest, however, a little history is in order - at the excellent Kauri Museum in Matakohe. Dennise Brownlie, a museum collections assistant, tells the story. She begins with the Big Tree: "Tane Mahuta is quite a magnificent tree," she says. When you see it, you'll know that is an understatement.
Before a trip to the forest, however, a little history is in order - at the excellent Kauri Museum in Matakohe. Dennise Brownlie, a museum collections assistant, tells the story. She begins with the Big Tree: "Tane Mahuta is quite a magnificent tree," she says. When you see it, you'll know that is an understatement.
The Maori were the first to use the kauri tree. "When they arrived here (hundreds of years ago from other Pacific islands), Northland was covered in forest and they used ... the wood for weapons and tools, and canoes. When they wanted a tree, they would go out and ask permission from the god of the forest and cut one tree down at a time, and always planted a seedling in its place," Brownlie explains. "When the (white) settlers arrived here, they weren't interested in the trees. They wanted the land for farms so they just started to cut them all down."
Today, one to three per cent of the kauri forest survives (compared to 1820), thanks to a conservation movement that began 50 years ago to save the Waipoua forest.
Today, one to three per cent of the kauri forest survives (compared to 1820), thanks to a conservation movement that began 50 years ago to save the Waipoua forest.
Prepare to be gobsmacked.
Then it's back to "paradise" near Waipu.
As Neave writes: "We have all become part of this magic place."
When you leave, if leave you must, it will seem like paradise lost.
*Air New Zealand flies to Auckland daily from Los Angeles. For more information, visit the websites for: New Zealand, the Northland region, the Waihoihoi Lodge, and the Kauri Museum.
* The Book of Secrets by Fiona Kidman is a marvellous fictional account of Norman McLeod and his followers.
© Vivian Macdonald, 2008.
Then it's back to "paradise" near Waipu.
As Neave writes: "We have all become part of this magic place."
When you leave, if leave you must, it will seem like paradise lost.
*Air New Zealand flies to Auckland daily from Los Angeles. For more information, visit the websites for: New Zealand, the Northland region, the Waihoihoi Lodge, and the Kauri Museum.
* The Book of Secrets by Fiona Kidman is a marvellous fictional account of Norman McLeod and his followers.
© Vivian Macdonald, 2008.